Nice

The promenade and the old town

Nice feels more Italian than Parisian: it only became French in 1860, and Vieux Nice still has ochre façades, narrow lanes and a cooking tradition close to Liguria's. The Promenade des Anglais runs about seven kilometres along the Baie des Anges, with blue chairs facing a pebble beach — bring sandals, because the stones get hot in summer. Castle Hill (Colline du Château) no longer has a castle, but the climb rewards you with the best view over the bay and the harbour. On Cours Saleya the flower and produce market runs every morning except Monday, when it becomes an antiques market.

Food, getting around and where to stay

Try socca, a chickpea pancake baked on a huge hot tray and eaten with your fingers, pissaladière, and pan bagnat, a sandwich of tuna, egg and raw vegetables. Nice Côte d'Azur airport is about 7 km from the centre, and tram line 2 takes you into town in around half an hour. From Nice, the coastal train reaches Monaco in about 20 minutes, Cannes in about 40 and Menton near the Italian border, so you do not need a car to see the whole coast.

For a base, the area between Vieux Nice, rue Jean Médecin and the promenade suits anyone who wants to walk everywhere. August fills the city and rooms go early, while February brings the Nice Carnival. Flights from Tirana to Nice vary by season and often involve a change; we check the current connections and put flights and accommodation together for you.