Como

The town at the corner of the lake

Como sits at the south-western tip of Lake Como, hemmed in by mountains that drop to the water. The old town is small and walkable: the Duomo with its pale façade, Piazza Cavour opening onto the lake, and lanes of shops and cafés. From Como, a funicular climbs to Brunate for a view over the lake and the Alps, best in the morning or just before sunset. The town has a long silk-making tradition, so look for local products rather than the usual souvenirs.

The lake: boats, villas and villages

Most visitors use Como as a base for the lake. Boats and ferries link the town to Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and the other villages; in summer the timetable is dense, but weekends also bring long queues. The villas and their gardens are the best way to understand why the lake draws so many people: Villa del Balbianello at Lenno, Villa Carlotta at Tremezzo and Villa Melzi in Bellagio open by season, so check their hours. Three villages in one day is too many — pick two and slow down.

What to eat and how to get there

At the table, look for risotto with perch fillets, polenta and missoltini, the lake's dried fish. Como is about 50 km from Milan, so many travellers combine it with a stay there: the train links the two in around an hour, depending on the station. The most convenient airports are Malpensa and Bergamo; from Tirana the connections to Milan are frequent, so you land there and continue by train or bus. The best season runs from April to October; August is crowded and July hot, while spring brings the gardens into bloom. The most common mistake is booking a hotel without checking how far it is from the part of the lake you want to see. Tell us your style and we will suggest the area.