Naples

The historic centre and its lanes

Naples does not try to look tidy, and that is exactly what makes it special. The historic centre is a UNESCO site: Spaccanapoli cuts the city in two along a single straight street, while Via San Gregorio Armeno is the nativity-scene street, open all year. The Cappella Sansevero holds the Veiled Christ, a sculpture worth the queue. The National Archaeological Museum houses the mosaics and finds from Pompeii, so it is a good start before you go to the site itself. From Piazza del Plebiscito and the Galleria Umberto I, carry on towards the coast, to Castel dell'Ovo and the seafront.

Pizza, coffee and sweets

Neapolitan pizza is a different thing: soft dough, a high puffy crust, tomato and mozzarella, baked in a wood-fired oven, and the art of the pizzaiolo is recognised by UNESCO. Look for pizzerias on Via dei Tribunali or in the less touristy districts, and don't be surprised if it arrives without a fork. Try fried pizza, frittatina and pasta e patate as well. Coffee is drunk standing up, and fast; sfogliatella and babà are the sweets you cannot skip. Watch for pickpockets in crowded spots and for scooters in narrow lanes.

Pompeii, the islands and getting there

Naples is the right base for Pompeii and Herculaneum, both reached on the Circumvesuviana train, and for Vesuvius. From the port, ferries and hydrofoils leave for Capri, Ischia and Procida; the Amalfi Coast is reached by boat or bus in summer. Capodichino airport is about 15 minutes from the centre and is linked by the Alibus shuttle. From Tirana, flights to Naples vary by season, so ask us about the options; another possibility is the Durrës–Bari ferry and then a train. The best time is April to June and September to October; August is very hot. Tell us what you want to see and we will suggest where to stay.